Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and tourists alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a global network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "stands as proof of its centuries-old food heritage and lively culinary scene," as noted by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this venerable city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has consistently shaped its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however say that their younger generation do not want to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to explore these tales and visit the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
